![]() WOW, what a response! :-) :-) :-) THANKS SO MUCH to EJW-54, fortapache, jscott0363, yougottahavestuff, Watchsearcher, ho2cultcha, Irishcollector., buckethead, Brunswick, Ben, Anik, iggy, blunderbuss2, bobby725, officialfuel, & Rageunder for stopping by and sharing the s for my old track anvil!!īB2, I certainly agree that someone with some good skills (plus some really good tools otherwise?!) made the thing.?! I had a piece of rail I used as an anvil once. Different shapes and profiles are a definite bonus.Lot of good work when into making that one. 58 that's 325lbs as well.pretty much the same, but add a side shelf near the horn that's really handy at times. ![]() 57 is my main anvil, which I like because of the number of curve radii you get on the horn (among other things). Still, for basic straightening and flattening almost any hard, flat surface will work.ģ30lb Refflinghaus No. Maybe you've got something curved that you want to straighten, but if you go directly to the flat face it will crease or turn into a kink.start on the horn and gradually flatten it. Say you want to open something up.heat it and force it over the tip of the horn until it's the right diameter. I only have actual blacksmith anvils but I use the horn a lot for a variety of things. ThanksIt really depends on what you're doing with them. I have been trying to decide if I want to mess with putting a horn on it. I managed to get a couple of sections of track and want to make an anvil someday. How often do any of you actually use the horn on these anvils? I have provisions to bolt one to my welding table which is pretty much an anvil on it's own, but the light one will end up on a tall stump by my soldering bench. Even with just the brake rotor (94 Ford 4x4) for a base, it's quite stable. ![]() My upright anvil in post #88 is over 100 lbs with attachments, so I just use a hand cart to wheel it around the shop. They aren't light (depending on the rail you start with, around 16 to 50 lb), but unless you have some serious issues, they aren't bad to lift. There is a giant metal recycler in town but nearest I can't tell the only sell by the truck and train car load.The short ones I've made tend to start with around 16 to 20" of track to get a good working weight. Haven't seen them in person yet, both are a fair drive away. I don't have any of those but have found a couple of scrap yards that actually sell metal. I need either a truck wheel and some pipe or part of a tree. I will have to come up with a stand for it. Plus I would have to lift the cotton picking thing. I worry about setting up that much potential energy by putting 2 or 3 feet of rail up at a comfortable working height. The reason I don't just use the piece full sized is it is really heavy. That will still leave me some track so I could always make another one and make it anvil shaped. I'm leaning towards cutting off a foot or so of one of the pieces of track I have, cleaning it up and not putting a horn or heel on it. I would like to have the option to have somthing to beat against if I need to heat and beat somthing in to a different shape. With small stock, you don't have a lot of time to work it before it cools down, so being able to go from the vise to the anvil without having to move is really convenient and saves me from needing an additional heat. If you twist stock, it generally bends, too. When I'm making punches and chisels, hardware, that sorta thing, it's really handy. I actually have a 3-1/2" swivel base vise that I added a shank to so I can use that on the anvil. The Hardie hole is something that I use a LOT. It would be a good idea to add some gussets to support the anvil face and add some mass to it.Įdit: meant to add that I use the horn quite a bit. ![]() I'd remove some of the web from under both the heel and the horn, I'd add bolt holes in the bottom flange to mount it to a big hardwood base (stump). If I were to make an anvil, I would add a 1" Hardie hole and a long horn. My work is a mix of repair, fab, and forging.
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